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固守家園-3.走進(jìn)印第安人寬廣的高原-比斯蒂荒野

muyang

<p class="ql-block"><b style="color: rgb(176, 79, 187);">Holding the Homeland -3.</b></p><p class="ql-block"><b style="color: rgb(176, 79, 187);">Journey to the Plateau of&nbsp;the native&nbsp;Americans -</b><b> </b>Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness </p> <p style="text-align: center; "><br></h3><h3 style="text-align: center; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">當(dāng)天高白云如同駭浪淹沒(méi)了大地, 當(dāng)?shù)剡h(yuǎn)寬廣到天際留出一線(xiàn)金邊。 行走其間猶如一粒沙石,</h3><h3 style="text-align: center; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">風(fēng)吹沙動(dòng),滾下坡來(lái), 點(diǎn)出一行移動(dòng)的省略符號(hào)。 </h3><h3><font color="#333333"><br></font></h3> <p class="ql-block">The sky is so high, white clouds flood the</p><p class="ql-block">earth like Huge waves.</p><p class="ql-block">The land is wide, far to a thin golden line&nbsp;</p><p class="ql-block">at the horizon.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"> Walking in it, small like a piece of sandstone, the</p><p class="ql-block"> wind blows, sand rolled down the hill, marked a line of moving ellipsis.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <h3>Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness 比斯蒂荒野;一方遠(yuǎn)古遺留下來(lái)未曾驚擾的,最荒涼的奇特谷地。位于美國(guó)新墨西哥州西南,宏偉的納瓦霍印第安人保留地之中,方圓整整45000英畝。<br></h3> <p class="ql-block">Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness; the most desolate and strange 45,000 acre valley left by mother nature. </p><p class="ql-block">Located in the northwestern part of New Mexico, in</p><p class="ql-block"> the magnificent Navajo Indian Reservation.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <h3>Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness 比斯蒂荒野,史前曾是內(nèi)陸海域的沿海沼澤; 大樹(shù)灌木;恐龍和原始哺乳動(dòng)物的家園。地球上非常獨(dú)特的巖層。走進(jìn)荒野,史前沼澤的痕跡暴露無(wú)疑在人類(lèi)面前。 借網(wǎng)絡(luò)圖片一張:<br></h3> <p class="ql-block">Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness, a prehistoric coastal </p><p class="ql-block">marsh in inland waters; large tree shrubs; homes of </p><p class="ql-block">dinosaurs and primitive mammals. A very unique </p><p class="ql-block">rock formation on the earth. Walking into the </p><p class="ql-block">wilderness, the traces of prehistoric swamps appear </p><p class="ql-block">in front of humans.</p> <h3>一地碎木渣、像是什么人劈柴沒(méi)收拾。其實(shí)都暴露在地表面上木化石。稍耐心點(diǎn)兒,還會(huì)找到恐龍化石呢。<br></h3> <p class="ql-block">It looks like scraps from a lumber yard, but these </p><p class="ql-block">petrified shards are many millions of years old. If you look around, i am sure there are dinosaur bones here.</p> <p style="text-align: center; ">Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness 比斯蒂荒野, 錯(cuò)入外來(lái)星球? 越時(shí)空超現(xiàn)實(shí)? 徒步火星行走? 上天有靈,借助千萬(wàn)年的風(fēng)雨,</h3><p style="text-align: center; ">鬼斧神工般“泥石塑”出萬(wàn)千的奇峰異石。</h3><p style="text-align: center; "> Bisti-比斯蒂一印第安語(yǔ)“石柱”。 </h3><h3><br></h3> <p class="ql-block">Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness landed on to the alien </p><p class="ql-block">planet? Crossed time and space? surreal? Walking on Mars?</p><p class="ql-block">With the help of thousands of years of wind and rain, God has carved thousands of strange stones. Bisti is</p><p class="ql-block"> an American Indian word "stone pillar".</p> <h3>走進(jìn)比斯蒂的荒野,便進(jìn)入與世隔絕的境地。 無(wú)路,無(wú)標(biāo)志,無(wú)水,無(wú)信號(hào)。 寸草難生,荒無(wú)人煙, 唯有于天地之間,奇石為鄰。 </h3> <p class="ql-block">Into the wilderness of Bisti, it is to enter the world of isolation, no road, no signs, no water, no grass,</p><p class="ql-block"> nobody is living here. Only you between the heaven and earth. The strange stones were our only</p><p class="ql-block"> neighbors.</p><p class="ql-block"> </p> <h3>正值七月大暑,雨季,天氣莫測(cè)。<br></h3> <p class="ql-block">It is in July, the summer heat, the monsoon season, </p><p class="ql-block">the weather is unpredictable.</p> <h3>所謂荒野大暑、就是高溫干燥,如不能及時(shí)進(jìn)水,炎日之下人體中的水分很快就會(huì)不知覺(jué)得從皮膚蒸發(fā)掉。后果不堪設(shè)想。 </h3><h3><br></h3> <p class="ql-block">The so-called wilderness heatwave is high </p><p class="ql-block">temperatures and dryness. The water in the human </p><p class="ql-block">body soon evaporates from the skin. If you dont keep drinking water the consequences could be disastrous.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <h3>所謂沙漠雨季、就是不知什么時(shí)候會(huì)有傾盆雷陣雨,站在荒野中央,環(huán)顧四方可以清楚地?cái)?shù)出有幾個(gè)蘑菇雨云正圍攏而來(lái)??諘绲脽o(wú)處躲藏。一個(gè)響雷霹靂下來(lái),后果不難想象。<br></h3> <p class="ql-block">The so-called Desert Monsoon season is a </p><p class="ql-block">thunderstorm shower can be occurring any time. </p><p class="ql-block">Standing in the middle of the wilderness, looking </p><p class="ql-block">around all directions, you can clearly count out how many mushroom rain clouds are coming toward to</p><p class="ql-block"> you. There is nowhere to hide from the Lightening. The consequences are not difficult to imagine.</p> <h3>所謂奇特巖層,就是黏膠陶土上有一層巖石(石柱實(shí)為黏膠土柱,頂著個(gè)巖石柱頭。)雨后泥地一腳踩下增厚一寸,五步開(kāi)外、五寸泥腳底,重得邁不開(kāi)步來(lái)。不要說(shuō)有多滑。隔天陣雨后依然滑跤,表層干硬底層濕滑。一腳滑倒先硬后軟,后果顯而易見(jiàn)。<br></h3> <p class="ql-block">The so-called strange rock formation is a layer of</p><p class="ql-block"> rock on the (viscose)sticky clay (the stone column is actually a clay column. The top layer of the column </p><p class="ql-block">is rock ). After the rain, stepped down on the mud,</p><p class="ql-block"> the bottom of shoes will immediately thickened by</p><p class="ql-block"> one inch. After five steps, and five-inch mud will be stock on the bottom of your shoes.</p><p class="ql-block">Very heavy, and not to mention how slippery. The</p><p class="ql-block"> day after storm showers, the ground was still</p><p class="ql-block"> slippery. dry and hard on the surface, but muddy and slippery underneath. Fall down in these conditions, </p><p class="ql-block">the consequences are obvious.</p> <h3>沒(méi)有向?qū)нM(jìn)入原始荒野是十分危險(xiǎn)的,迷失方向走不出來(lái);暴雨襲擊逃不出來(lái);滑倒碰傷救不出來(lái),我們有幸請(qǐng)到了非常有野外經(jīng)驗(yàn),熟悉地形及氣候的印第安人向?qū)?。穩(wěn)重的Kialo和助手憨厚的Gilbert。有他們的引路,心里安穩(wěn)多了。<br></h3> <p class="ql-block">It is very dangerous to enter the primitive wilderness without an experienced guide. You may lose </p><p class="ql-block">direction and not get out; you may encounter a</p><p class="ql-block"> thunderstorm and can’t escape; you may fall and </p><p class="ql-block">can't get help. we were fortunate to have two very good guides; experienced, and familiar with the terrain, the climate, and the wilderness, steady Kialo and his assistant Gilbert. With their guidance, my heart was much more secure.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <h3>Kialo指著東北角壓過(guò)來(lái)的黑云 “你們不必緊張,我在觀(guān)察陣雨的走向,預(yù)算的時(shí)間,會(huì)帶大家安全離開(kāi)。”<br></h3> <p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">Kialo points to the black cloud over the northeast</p><p class="ql-block"> corner. "You don't have to be nervous. I am watching the direction of the thunderstorm. I will take </p><p class="ql-block">everyone to safety in time ."</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <h3>相信印第安人與生俱來(lái)有與天地溝通的靈氣。Kialo不時(shí)眺望長(zhǎng)空揮動(dòng)著雙臂,無(wú)法置信,風(fēng)轉(zhuǎn)向,云消散,壓頂烏云退卻下去。夕陽(yáng)溫和地平射過(guò)來(lái),Gilbert盤(pán)坐坡頂,臂膀環(huán)抱暖光。閉目輕聲詠誦…… <br></h3> <p class="ql-block">I believe that the Indians are born with the ability to </p><p class="ql-block">communicate with the heavens . Many times Kialo</p><p class="ql-block"> looked at the sky and reached out with his arms.</p><p class="ql-block"> Unimaginably, the wind changed direction, the </p><p class="ql-block">clouds dissipated, and the dark thunderstorms </p><p class="ql-block">dropped back to the Horizon。Gilbert sat on the top of the slope and faced the sun, and embraced the </p><p class="ql-block">warm light with his arms, and closed his eyes in</p><p class="ql-block"> prayer...</p> <h3>Magic!神靈!瞬間,比斯蒂荒野變得色彩斑斕,攝影者祈求的景致依依出現(xiàn):雙道彩虹,落日余暉,火燒彩云,新月高升。其變化真是以分鐘來(lái)計(jì)算。<br></h3> <p class="ql-block">Gods Magic! In an instant, the Bisti wilderness</p><p class="ql-block"> became dramatically colorful, and the spectacular</p><p class="ql-block"> scenes that all photographers wish for appeared one by one: double rainbows, the sunsets dramatic </p><p class="ql-block">burning clouds, the rising moon in the rosy sky . The colors kept changing minute by minute.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <h3 style="text-align: center; ">興奮,激動(dòng),慌亂。 根本來(lái)不及支三腳架, 用盡渾身數(shù)解去取景,構(gòu)圖,拍攝。 急匆匆、忘記干燥地表下面的濕泥,</h3><h3 style="text-align: center; ">一失腳摔跪了下去。 算是拜謝了荒野。 </h3><h3><br></h3> <p class="ql-block">Moved, excited, and enchanted.</p><p class="ql-block">There was no time for setting up a tripod, but quickly think all the technical points, then compose and </p><p class="ql-block">shoot. In a hurry, forgot the wet mud under the dry </p><p class="ql-block">surface, slipped and knelt down to the the ground, </p><p class="ql-block">really a bow to the Besti wilderness.</p> <p style="text-align: center; ">這真是太美了!</h3><p style="text-align: center; ">不能不高聲讓老天知曉我的感受。 不由自主地像 Kialo 那樣地張開(kāi)雙臂,</h3><p style="text-align: center; ">仰向天空。 </h3> <p class="ql-block">Oh god, this is too beautiful to be true ! Cant help</p><p class="ql-block"> shouting loudly to let God know how I feel. Opened my arms, Just like Kialo and reached to the sky.</p> <p style="text-align: center; ">我們有幸能做比斯蒂荒野的見(jiàn)證人, 令Kialo 和 Gilbert心慰。 兩位印第安人的后裔,不僅是好向?qū)В?lt;/h3><p style="text-align: center; ">還是不錯(cuò)的攝影者。 夢(mèng)想有一天通過(guò)他們的攝影作品, 讓更多的人認(rèn)識(shí)他們的家園。 </h3><h3><br></h3> <p class="ql-block">We are fortunate to be witnesses to the Bisti </p><p class="ql-block">Wilderness. </p><p class="ql-block">Kialo and Gilbert are very pleased that they were part of our Journey. These descendants of Native Indian</p><p class="ql-block"> are not only good guides, but also are good </p><p class="ql-block">photographers. They hope that one day, through their photography works, more people will know their</p><p class="ql-block"> home.</p> <h3>為什么要來(lái)? 為什么要經(jīng)歷酷暑炎曬? 為什么對(duì)應(yīng)這樣多的氣候未知數(shù)? 就是因?yàn)锽isti,比斯蒂荒野。 不來(lái),何以見(jiàn)得到這般奇景? 何以懂得什么是天地之間? </h3> <p class="ql-block">Why are we coming?</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">Why do we have to experience the heat and </p><p class="ql-block">sunburn ?</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">Why do we have to face unpredictables? </p> <h3> <div style="text-align: center;">我們, 我們每一個(gè)人, 難道不是都在這天地之間? We, Each of us, Aren’t we all standing&nbsp;</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br></div><div style="text-align: center;">between heaven and earth? <br></div></h3> <p class="ql-block">  特此,感謝 Kialo 提供 Muyang ,Jack實(shí)地照片。</p><p class="ql-block">Special thanks to Kialo for the photos of Muyang and Jack.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p>